Just used this o2 socket for my 2010 camry. I had a p0137 code and found out it was a downstream o2 sensor. While down there the socket fit nice and snuggly on the sensor. I had to use a cheater bar and gave it a lot of force. So much so that i felt if this was inferior metal if would have broken before removing the sensor. Thankfully i heard the sensor give out and then i proceeded to unscrew the sensor by hand. Then putting the new sensor back on screwed on nicely and then used it again to give it an extra quarter turn. Overall great experience with the product i hope i don’t have to use it often but i’m glad i spent the money to buy it and save myself over 400.
I’m so glad i sprung the extra money to buy this for replacing my mother’s air-fuel sensor. I’m not a mechanic at all, and didn’t really expect to use this thing more than once. But since i figured i was saving a boatload by doing it myself, i decided i could put some of that savings into making it easier. And at well over 100 f outside that day, i’m glad i did. The whole job was done before i even broke a sweat. It’s now hanging on my pegboard where it’ll collect dust until (maybe) needed again.
After reading many of the reviews, i was worried that it would flex and slip around the bolt. I was able to put a ton of force onto the rachet and this socket did not slip. It actually deformed the head of the sensor slightly.
If your car is newer, or you don’t live near the shore, i recommend this product. In my case, my car is older and i live near the shore, so my o2 sensoer was in there tight. I ultimately needed to use the claw foot style and a 3′ pipe to get mine out. This did work well on my sons car, so there is nothing wrong with the product. It’s just that the claw foot type is probably a better option if your o2 sensor has been on a car in salt air for 14 years. At the price, i would buy both, as installation is much easier with this socket than the claw foot type. The right tool for the right job.
This product came as described and was sturdy. It fit the old and new fuel ration sensor and worked as expected. Honda did not make this job easy as the space was very tight and was just barely able to fit the socket and my socket wrench to be able to get the par out. After i did the prep process correctly (see more in a little), it took all of 15 minutes take out and put the new one in. Was very happy with the product. Make sure to warm the care up for at least fifteen minutes or drive it. Immediately lift it up and spray well with pb blaster or liquid wrench penetrating oil. Let that sit for 10 minutes.
I used this to remove and install the air-fuel o2 sensor on a 2003 toyota rav4 (rav 4 to help with search results)i was displeased with the clearance inside the socket for the wires leading off the o2 sensor, since they come straight out the tip of the end of the sensor, you have to bend them at least 90 degrees to exit the socket properly. Thankfully there was enough give in the wires to do this without damaging their insulation much; i only noticed a few light marks. During installation i carefully turned the o2 sensor with the socket, then backed the socket off the sensor and turned it counter-clockwise one notch. Then i put it back on the sensor to turn it clockwise more. I repeated this until tight, so i didn’t spin the wires around the sensor, avoiding as much bending as possible as i tightened it. The sensor i removed i was less careful and saw some bare wire afterward, i’m guessing from the socket. Some electrical tape inside the socket might help that, or just being more careful. All things considered it’s made well and did the job, i just wish it had 1/4 inch more length to clear the (what i consider normal) o2 sensor. The sensor installed can be seen on amazon: ‘denso 234-9023 air fuel ratio sensor’.
I purchased this part to remove and reinstall an upstream o2 sensor from the exhaust manifold of my car to a new header. Unfortunately, what other reviews state is true: under sufficient torque the socket will open up and round over the o2 sensor. That being said, i then tried cutting the wires off the sensor and hammering it with my impact gun (~325 ft-lbs) and it would not budge. Hence, it would be unfair for me to hold the apparent weakness of the socket against it. For installation, however, this part does exactly as intended. To prevent future problems with your o2 sensors, be sure to use anti-seize lubricant on the threads (just like a spark plug).
Had stubborn o2 sensors on my downpipes and as suggested by others i used a hose clamp at the bottom to grab onto the flat surfaces of the o2 sensor a little better and set my impact on low and hit it once and they came out. I tried by hand with just a open end wrench and it wouldn’t budge. Just be sure to tape the pigtails to the socket very good if you are using an impact so it doesn’t whirl around and damage the connector when it breaks loose. Once it breaks loose you can easily remove them by hand.
- Works well with a small modification.Use a hose clamp.
- DO NOT USE THIS FOR EXTRACTION – BAD PHYSICS
- 1 of 3 useful tools for O2 sensor removal.
TEKTON 4929 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch Oxygen Sensor Socket
- Make sure this fits
by entering your model number.
- Removes and installs oxygen sensors on vehicles with computer-controlled engines
- Common 6 point, 7/8 in. (22mm) socket fits most oxygen sensors
- Side cutout prevents damage to wires
- Constructed from drop forged, heat treated, chrome vanadium steel
- High-contrast, permanent, laser etched size marking is easy-to-read, even in low light
Hyundai fixed the bad angle of the upper sensor on 2004 model, but before 2004, it’s a tight spot. The person who mentioned the hose clamp idea, thank you. I would buy these 3 tools below. If your time is more important than your money, get all three at once. If your money is more important than your time, i would “rank” the usefulness as below. 1 tekton 47749 “stubby”2 tekton 4929 deep well with slot3 bovidix 0681922 flare nut wrench, metric – 19 x 22mm (or similar) (least helpful tool for a really really stuck sensor but great for after initial rust break and tightening)the 47749 is the best for tight spots and being able to get a breaker bar or an impact wrench on it. But the deep well is better for full force with an impact wrench. I was able the remove my upper sensor and lower sensor.
This socket is well made, and very durable. However, there is a major flaw. Like some of the other reviews i had read, this socket started to round out my o2 sensor nut. It’s not so much the slot from the wire giving room (another review recommends a great remedy to this), but the fact that this is a “7/8 (22mm)” and most cars with foreign parts use metric measurements. That said, the difference between 7/8″ and a true 22mm socket is very small, but enough to cause damage to a nut if it is seized in tightly. I even purchased a 22mm deep socket, but the nut was too rounded by then for it to work. After some knuckle busting and more than a few choice words for the situation, i was finally able to get the nut to start moving, using locking pliers with a torque lock to “dig” into the nut. It was then that this o2 socket did its job. When installing the new o2 sensor, the socket worked like a charmbottom line:great for installing a new sensornot recommended for removing a seized or tightly rusted sensor (it’s best to cut the wires of the old and use a true 22mm deep socket, or even try the clamp on the socket trick). If you’re not sure how tight the sensor is, always assume it’s locked in good and don’t run the risk of rounding the nut.
Worked fine when removing o2 sensor from an 2012 s5 4. The wire is a bit thick and the slot on this socket is a skinny making the fit sort of tight, but the likelihood of flexing is also lower (so that the bolt doesn’t get stripped if it slips). The o2 sensor wasn’t on super tight either, so if the bolt was harder to remove i’d simply slip a twist tie or clamp around the end of the socket to keep it from flexing.
Three stars – a good split o2 sensor tool. Do not use this for extraction. It’s a good installation tool – but just about all split sockets like this will just round off the edges of the sensor you are trying to pull. Just bad physics, as the ‘ears’ will spread. All tools of this ilk do this. 1) cut off the end of the dead sensor. You can’t really hurt it anymore. 2) use an honest deep well six sided socket, heat, pb blaster, prayer, and a big breaker bar to get the old sensor out. It will be frozen, as most factory installed sensors did not go in with anti-seize.
I’ve noticed that several reviewers were not happy with the strength of this tool as they were able to bend it while they were removing the old sensor. This tool is made of what appears to be pretty stout metal, but you might be able to damage it with a breaker bar or similar tool. I had a 22mm deep impact socket that i was going to use for removal after i cut the wires off of the old sensor. Before doing that i tried to remove the sensor with this tool and it came right out. I did spray some penetrating oil on the original sensor about 20 minutes before i removed it so that might have made the difference. My suggestion would be to use a standard deep 7/8′ or 22mm socket to remove the sensor if it won’t come out easily. Then you can just use this tool to install the new sensor. If you damage this while installing the new sensor you’re probably using way too much torque.
Works well with a small $2 modification. When you attempt to remove the stubborn o2 sensor, you need a lot of torque. The slot in this socket that allows for the wire of the sensor is a weak point on the socket. You will apply pressure and it will ‘skip’ around the bolt as the slot opens wider. A simple $2 metal hose clamp will fix this. Place the socket on the bolt. Slide the hose clamp over the wire and over the socket as close to the bottom as you can. Tighten the clamp and torque away.Once the sensor is out, loosen and remove the hose clamp. For tightening the new sensor you won’t need the clamp.
Honestly, i’m upset that this tool didn’t work for me. The socket itself is awesome. Great matte finish with the highly legible laser engraving that i’ve come to love from tekton. No doubt about that; this is actually a fairly heavy socket. The problem i had with it, is that the opening for the cable is just too narrow. It frayed one of my o2 sensors (fortunately, it frayed the one being replaced), and the other o2 sensor didn’t even fit. Probably an extra 1/16 – 1/8′ would do the trick.
I own this socket which is comparable to the blue point ya9385 which i also own. I mention this because there is a large price difference between the two. As far as use goes, the blue point is 1/2 inch drive and this is a 3/8 drive. That is my #1 complaint, if you have clearance to hit the sensor head on like this, you have room for 1/2 drive. I am a believer that you should use the appropriate drive size to the application, and this being a 22mm, 1/2 inch is most appropriate. I have no complaints on the quality. Fit or function of this socket. I appreciate the fact that it is 3/8 inch, considering that 3/8 drive is the most common, and i do not think that 3/8 is out of any spec for this application. I also own the tekton 47749 and would honestly buy that one before this one if both would work for the application. This socket is quite bulky and has the same 3/8 drive, so i would personally opt for socket of this style to be 1/2 inch drive.